Saturday, August 28, 2010
Jus Burgers Subiaco- Mini Review
Having been roundly criticised for my less-than-effusive review of Jus Burgers recently, I took it upon myself to return. This time, Subiaco would be the battleground. This time, Chris would not be in support. This was my mission alone. Man versus burger. Versus the world. Times one thousand.
To those too lazy to navigate to said initial review, my problems largely centred around the ridiculous burger I was forced to confront- The Guvnor. This monstrosity was too big. Too much meat. Not enough flavour. And you needed a knife and fork to eat the bugger. In all honestly, it was charity giving it the score that I did.
And so I made Jus a special case. Maybe one swallow doesn't make a summer. Maybe one silly burger shouldn't tarnish the entire Jus franchise. Maybe I should give it one more try- Mini Review Style!!!!
No more messing around. The burger that got away- the one that I looked back on and sobbed into my Guvnor regretting- was the Spanish Snag. Chorizo sausage, sweet red peppers, Harvey beef. A match made in heaven and one not too dissimilar to a masterpiece we reviewed at V Burger Bar.
Firstly, lets not kid ourselves. These are quality ingredients. Lovely, spicy chunks of chorizo sat atop a thick handmade beef patty. It was encased in quality turkish bread and topped with tasty house-made aioli and relish.
So why did things go so wrong?
Once again to my disappointment, the burger was just too damn big. To the uninitiated, this might seem like a silly criticism when you're as passionate about burgers as we are so let me elaborate. One of the greatest joys of eating a burger- a primal joy- is to hold it in both hands and sink your teeth into it. The wonderful thing about a great burger is that one bite should contain all the different ingredients of the burger harmonising together.
The Spanish Snag, whilst not as hefty as the Guvnor, prevented ANY of that joy. I picked it up with both hands and tried to take a decent bite out of it. Too much sauce/aioli/relish on the burger meant it came out EVERYWHERE- from the sides, out the knife-hole in the top, everywhere. The sheer size of the burger meant that I could only sample a couple of ingredients at a time. And they just weren't that great on their own.
The meat patty remains boring. If you're going to put an enormous patty on your burger that completely dominates the flavour, make sure it doesn't just taste like mince. The other ingredients were fine, and would have made a good accompaniment to a more reasonably-sized, better-tasting patty. The ridiculous amount of sauce on the burger, clearly designed to offset the plainness of the patty, served only to act as a dripping hazard.
If you haven't yet, read our review of Missy Moos in Fremantle. Yes, I know the name is ridiculous. Jus is the anti-Missy Moos. Where MM used quality ingredients in proportion to create an immensely satisfying whole, Jus only knows excess. There's no balance. There's no interest in the pleasure of actually eating the thing. There's only the slamming together of a whole lot of gourmet "stuff" and ending up with a whole that is actually far less than the sum of its parts.
I'm sorry if that sounds harsh, but I hate to see great potential go to waste.
Burger (/10) 6
Chips (/5) 3
Value (/5) 2
Overall (/20) 11